{"id":1726,"date":"2022-09-02T15:20:06","date_gmt":"2022-09-02T13:20:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ecochain.com\/blogs\/lca-and-fashion\/"},"modified":"2025-03-26T11:59:13","modified_gmt":"2025-03-26T11:59:13","slug":"lca-and-fashion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ecochain.com\/nl\/blog\/lca-and-fashion\/","title":{"rendered":"Life Cycle Assessments &#038; The Fashion Industry: The Good, The Bad, The Potential"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">With the recent increase in greenwashing claims for big names like H&amp;M, Boohoo, Asos, Asda, Life Cycle Assessments (*LCA for short) as a measurement method for the environmental impact of products \u2013 has come under quite a lot of critique.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">These brands are often accused of showing inaccurate environmental data and untransparent\/bad sustainability reporting. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Of course, we want to know <\/span><b>how<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> these brands acquired their \u2018environmental data\u2019. And that\u2019s where LCA comes to the surface.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In this article, we dive into the 3 most common critiques on Life Cycle Assessment and share our views as an LCA software provider.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h2><strong>What\u2019s a Life Cycle Assessment?<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Life Cycle Assessments or LCA is one of the main scientific environmental impact assessment methods available. It allows you to measure the footprint of your product. LCA assesses the environmental impact of a product throughout every phase of its life- the so-called product life cycle. Think of:<\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Producing the raw materials, all the way back to growing plants and cultivating land,\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The production processes that take place at a manufacturer,\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Transport of materials and of the product to consumers,\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The use of the product,\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And how a product is disposed of- or recycled.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Fashion brands and textile manufacturers can choose which different life cycle phases they want to include in their LCA. For example, the lifecycle model Gradle-to-gate focuses only on the footprint of your production until your product leaves the factory. Therefore including everything in your <\/span><b>\u2018upstream\u2019 <\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">value chain e.g. the raw material extraction, transport of raw materials, and production processes.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2620\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"width: 461px;\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2620\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-2620\" src=\"https:\/\/ecochain.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/Ecochain_Infographic_ProductLifecycleStages-300x240.jpg\" sizes=\"(max-width: 461px) 100vw, 461px\" srcset=\"\" alt=\"Ecochain_Infographic_ProductLifecycleStages\" width=\"461\" height=\"369\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2620\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Image 1. Product Lifecycle Models in LCA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">LCA offers the use of environmental impact databases made from scientifically researched and approved impact references of materials and processes \u2013 such as <a href=\"https:\/\/ecoinvent.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">EcoInvent<\/a> or <a href=\"https:\/\/gabi.sphera.com\/databases\/gabi-databases\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Gabi<\/a>. These average impact references are called \u2018secondary data\u2019, and help companies start up their measurements if they don\u2019t have all the raw primary data on their processes and materials yet. Your primary and secondary data input for your product results in a certain amount of emissions. These emissions are then translated into impact outcomes in LCA.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The LCA results: <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/ecochain.com\/blog\/impact-categories-lca\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">15+ impact outcomes<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> on your product, which include carbon emissions, land use, water pollution, health damage, etc.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h2><strong>The 3 main critiques on LCA in fashion and our response<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>We summarized the critique on LCA in Fashion into three main critiques.<\/p>\n<h2><strong>1. Many brands use average data, this is bad.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Average data here refers to the use of impact databases in LCA such as EcoInvent. Usually, average data is associated with \u2018quick and dirty\u2019 LCAs. Companies only use and rely on average data from databases, which isn\u2019t specific to their product. Why? Because it\u2019s faster and easier than gathering primary data from suppliers \u2013 and diving into relevant materials and processes on-site- or in the value chain. It <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u2018does the deed\u2019 <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">so to say.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The result: average footprints that might give you a good indication of where your biggest impact comes from. But don\u2019t give an accurate depiction of your product. How can you make sustainability claims \u2013 if your footprint results aren\u2019t true to your product\u2019s reality?<\/span><\/p>\n<h3><strong>1.1 Our response:\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Average data isn\u2019t inherently inaccurate, as it\u2019s based on previous scientific research. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But it does have both negative and positive associations to it.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>a. The negative: <\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The use of average data is often not communicated transparently and simply used to say <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u2018Voila this is my actual impact! We are doing a great job\u2019.<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Moreover, many companies don\u2019t work on actually gathering the primary data necessary to improve the quality of their footprint results \u2013 after their initial measurements. Still, this isn\u2019t a problem related to LCA, but how companies and researchers <\/span><b>use <\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">the method.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The main solutions here are increasing LCA knowledge within companies, strict legislation, and punishment for brands practicing greenwashing.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>b. The positive: <\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The purpose of LCI databases in LCA, is so companies are able to start with impact measurements. It allows for filling the gaps where companies lack primary data. Primary data is more accurate raw data that is directly collected from main sources. However, a lot of this data lies with manufacturers, suppliers, or distributors. Making it difficult to already have all primary data ready, when companies start their first LCA. The more fragmented, intransparent, and complex supply chains are \u2013 the bigger the hurdle (associated with high costs) to collect this primary data.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Therefore, average data is a great means to start your measurements. It gives a good indication of which processes or materials cause the biggest impact. The result: <\/span><b>focus<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> on where to invest your sustainability efforts and which suppliers should be prioritized for requests of raw primary data (inventory data or LCA\u2019s of their products).\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote><p><b>Plainly said:<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> the higher the quality of data you put into your LCA, the more accurate its results. The more in-depth primary data you gather, the more credible your results will be. But this does require time and effort.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/ecochain.com\/blog\/primary-vs-secondary-data-in-lca\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Read more about the use of primary vs secondary data in LCA here.\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n<h2><strong>2. LCA isn\u2019t nuanced enough.<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Often companies use very specific materials in their products. But as soon as they start looking for the corresponding impact references, they can\u2019t find the ones specific to their product. So, brands that are putting in the extra work to really create innovative, sustainable processes or materials \u2013 can\u2019t be rewarded for it.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h3><strong>2.1 Our response:<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">This is a very relevant issue a lot of companies face. Their product is different from the average impact reference (e.g. their cotton is produced differently or comes from a very specific place), so their LCA results won\u2019t be specific enough to their product.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>But, there\u2019s a solution. <\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Multiple impact references can be <\/span><b>tweaked and combined<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> together to create a reference for a company\u2019s specific process or product. Say, you use an energy mix that doesn\u2019t exist in an LCI database. In that case, you can use the background data behind the individual references of these energy types- and combine them. This creates an LCA reference that better resembles your product\u2019s production process and supply chain.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Still, even without all primary data available, background processes can be adjusted with the data a company <\/span><b>did<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> already gather. Enabling a more realistic data model and increasing the overall data quality and reliability of your LCA (i.e. less insecurity of the outcomes). The more layers and specific reference combinations you add to your LCA, the more accurate the results will be. And the more useful it is for companies purchasing your products \u2013 to make their LCA\u2019s more credible too.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Creating these in-depth references isn\u2019t always easy. That\u2019s why offer specialist support to our software users to help them modify data behind the environmental database references. Ensuring companies have the most realistic LCA for their specific case.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div class=\"elementor elementor-24750\" data-elementor-type=\"section\" data-elementor-id=\"24750\">\n<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-da55174 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"da55174\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-settings=\"{&quot;background_background&quot;:&quot;classic&quot;}\">\n<div class=\"elementor-background-overlay\"><\/div>\n<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-e7cdf05\" data-id=\"e7cdf05\" data-element_type=\"column\">\n<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-d09d6fd elementor-widget elementor-widget-heading\" data-id=\"d09d6fd\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"heading.default\">\n<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n<h3 class=\"elementor-heading-title elementor-size-xl\">Get the #1 newsletter on environmental sustainability in fashion &amp; apparel.<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-01bd1e6 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"01bd1e6\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n<p>Receive stories of sustainable change makers and practical insights on how to reduce the environmental footprint of your products.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-d2fd64c elementor-widget elementor-widget-html\" data-id=\"d2fd64c\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"html.default\">\n<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\"><script charset=\"utf-8\" type=\"text\/javascript\" src=\"\/\/js.hsforms.net\/forms\/embed\/v2.js\"><\/script><br \/>\n<script>\n  hbspt.forms.create({\n    region: \"na1\",\n    portalId: \"5018574\",\n    formId: \"107ea864-c6fe-4a66-9853-0ec7136d27e4\"\n  });\n<\/script><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-74891e6 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"74891e6\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n<p>We protect your data.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-3eeb006 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"3eeb006\" data-element_type=\"section\">\n<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-3a70ab0\" data-id=\"3a70ab0\" data-element_type=\"column\">\n<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n<h2><strong>3. \u2018Comparing\u2019 the impact of products based on\u2026what?<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Quite some brands want to prove they are more sustainable than similar products. To show the difference, they want to compare their product to an average one. But how do you know what a standard product looks like? The fashion industry currently doesn\u2019t have an \u2018industry standard\u2019 for any kind of product, but they still make these claims. Potentially creating their own industry standard that could make their own products look better and mislead consumers.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h3><strong>3.1 Our response:\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">To create a clear level-playing field in product footprint comparisons \u2013\u00a0 we need better industry standards available to measure the impact of textile products. The <a href=\"https:\/\/ec.europa.eu\/environment\/archives\/eussd\/pdf\/footprint\/PEF%20methodology%20final%20draft.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">European Commission\u2019s PEF standard<\/a> (Product Environmental Footprint) will be the way forward to harmonize impact measurements and enable our users to make LCAs according to the same standards.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The <a href=\"https:\/\/ecochain.com\/blog\/product-environmental-footprint\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">PEF<\/a> is still being developed, but will be a standard way of measuring and reporting LCA \u2013 also for different product groups (using the PEF\u2019s Product Category Rules, also PEFCR\u2019S). These PEFCRs create industry-average products, that enable benchmark values for companies. This allows for better comparisons between brands and their products. Finally, leading to a better-regulated and transparent way of measuring environmental impacts in the textile industry.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><b>What brands can do until the PEF has arrived:<\/b><\/p>\n<ol>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If you want to compare your product to an average now: Use the exact same production processes and materials to model the product you\u2019re comparing to, but use the \u2018average\u2019 impact references in EcoInvent. Be transparent about which data you used to make your \u2018industry average\u2019. So people know what you\u2019re comparing to.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The European Commission needs brands to help them create these product-specific PEFCRs and industry standards. <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/ec.europa.eu\/environment\/eussd\/smgp\/pdf\/PEFCR_tshirt.pdf\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For example, one PEFCR already created is the one for T-shirts.<\/span><\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-20531\" src=\"https:\/\/ecochain.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/05\/waldemar-brandt-0nF1iPoTuJs-unsplash.jpg\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\" srcset=\"\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1408\" \/><\/figure>\n<h2><strong>Our final conclusion on LCA in fashion<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><strong>The quality of LCA results truly depends on the quality of the data that goes in.<\/strong> Having accurate and credible LCA results comes down to the amount of effort companies want to put into it. And sadly, many companies who have the resources to gather the raw data necessary for accurate LCA\u2019s \u2013 don\u2019t invest\/or apply them properly and transparently.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A proper LCA takes time and requires the right knowledge and skillset to really understand what you are looking at (e.g. LCI databases, average data, LCA results, etc). That\u2019s why it\u2019s crucial we share knowledge between LCA researchers and professionals in specific industries. One of the reasons we share free LCA knowledge on our website as well.<\/span><\/p>\n<h3>Sustainability doesn\u2019t happen\u2026overnight<\/h3>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We shouldn\u2019t forget sustainability is a <\/span><b>journey<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> that requires <\/span><b>effort<\/b><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. It\u2019s okay if a company starting its sustainability journey, might not have all the data sourced necessary for a 100% accurate LCA. That\u2019s exactly why environmental databases such as Ecoinvent exist. It helps companies start measuring and quantifying their environmental impact. However, plainly \u2018having environmental data\u2019 should never be the end stop of sustainability efforts. <strong>Companies ALWAYS need to be transparent on:<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Where they are in their sustainability journey + what that means,<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Which data they use as input for their LCA + the scope (what are you actually measuring?),<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Which data they use to compare their product(s) to,<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">How they interpret their results and what credible sources they use for this interpretation,<\/span><\/li>\n<li style=\"font-weight: 400;\" aria-level=\"1\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">What next steps they will take to create more credible footprint results and\/or sustainable product improvements.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">LCA is one of the most trustworthy impact measurement methods currently existing. Instead of breaking it down, let\u2019s increase attention to greenwashing, stimulate the market to use primary data, and adopt newly developed standards &amp; methods to increase comparability and credibility (such as PEF).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-layout-flex\"><\/div>\n<div class=\"elementor elementor-23178\" data-elementor-type=\"page\" data-elementor-id=\"23178\">\n<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-1ebb017e elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"1ebb017e\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-settings=\"{&quot;background_background&quot;:&quot;classic&quot;}\">\n<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-1c9af36c\" data-id=\"1c9af36c\" data-element_type=\"column\">\n<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-69e5cb88 elementor-cta--skin-cover elementor-widget elementor-widget-call-to-action\" data-id=\"69e5cb88\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"call-to-action.default\">\n<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n<div class=\"elementor-cta__bg-wrapper\">\n<div class=\"elementor-cta__bg elementor-bg\" style=\"background-image: url('https:\/\/ecochain.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/agricultural-silos-building-exterior-1-min.jpg');\"><\/div>\n<div class=\"elementor-cta__bg-overlay\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"elementor-cta__content\">\n<h2 class=\"elementor-cta__title elementor-cta__content-item elementor-content-item\">Understanding the impact of your apparel can be <u>this<\/u> easy.<\/h2>\n<div class=\"elementor-cta__button-wrapper elementor-cta__content-item elementor-content-item \"><span class=\"elementor-cta__button elementor-button elementor-size-md\"><br \/>\nMORE ABOUT LCA IN FASHION <\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>With the recent increase in greenwashing claims for big names like H&amp;M, Boohoo, Asos, Asda, Life Cycle Assessments (*LCA for short) as a measurement method for the environmental impact of products \u2013 has come under quite a lot of critique.\u00a0 These brands are often accused of showing inaccurate environmental data and untransparent\/bad sustainability reporting. Of [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":89,"featured_media":1727,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[75],"tags":[],"industries":[14],"use-cases":[20,21],"departments":[25,26,27,28,29],"class_list":["post-1726","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-other","industries-apparel","use-cases-ecodesign","use-cases-lca","departments-commercial","departments-other","departments-production","departments-rd","departments-sustainability"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v27.3 (Yoast SEO v27.3) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>LCA &amp; the Fashion Industry - Ecochain - LCA software company<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Big fashion brands are under fire for greenwashing claims. Here are our views as Life Cycle Assessment software provider.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ecochain.com\/nl\/blog\/lca-and-fashion\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"nl_NL\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Life Cycle Assessments &amp; the Fashion Industry - The good, the bad, the potential.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Big fashion brands are under fire for greenwashing claims. And the impact measurement method Life Cycle Assessments (LCA) faces a lot of critiques. 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